drytoolinguk.com

FAQ's and Information for Climbing Walls

We are the first dedicated company and the leading providers in the UK of drytooling events and event management. Tooling sessions can really make a huge difference to the through-put of clients at certain times of the year, and having such a diverse activity on offer creates great enthusiasm through both existing and potential clients. The rapid growth of interest in drytooling events in recent years testifies to this. We exist to arrange, promote and run events across the UK. These can be competitions, workshops, come-and-try-it taster sessions or whatever you think is appropriate for your facility. We have been involved in everything from family taster routes for Children in Need to top-end competition route-setting.

It is useful to understand a few things about drytooling as regards its use in climbing walls. In particular, owners and managers may find the following information of use.

• How are the routes set up?

Routes are set in the normal way, working either ground-up or top-down. Normal climbing holds are used, either ours or yours, although these would most likely come from your 'retired' bin, or would include holds that were getting a bit polished or chipped. Once holds have been used for a tooling session, it is recommended that they are not used for normal climbing, as axe picks could have created sharp edges on them. Very soon, a series of commercially manufactured dedicated tooling holds will be come available, although many venues will still choose to use their old stock for the time being.

• Does it affect other routes already on the wall?

No. We just add holds for tooling and won't change any existing routes.

• Can the wall be damaged?

With proper route-setting, your wall will not be harmed in any way. The holds are backed with either lino or thin carpet, which protects the wall from any contact with axes. As axes are carefully placed and not swung, climbers have to be delicate with their technique and the chances of them making contact with an unprotected pary of the wall is minimal.

Cutting backing to protect the wall behind holds.

Route setting. Note the backing being used to protect the wall.

• What about crampons?

Crampons are never used on indoor climbing walls. Apart from the damage that they could inflict on the wall, they could also present a great hazard to the belayer in a fall situation. Normally, either stiff-soled mountain boots or, more commonly, rock boots will be worn, which do no damage to the holds or wall whatsoever.

• Are any extra tooling obstacles ever used?

It is common to use extras such as hanging logs, with car tyres also being useful. These create problems that are different to just climbing on standard holds, and give a different dimension to routes. These can easily be suspended from a suitable part of the wall such as bolt hangers, girders etc. Other side-competitions can also be easily set up, such as a figure of four comp, a campussing comp etc.

A competitor on a swinging log problem.

• What about lead falls?

The vast majority of indoor routes are either bottom-roped or are boulder problems. Only occasionally, for the grand final of some competitions involving experienced climbers, would any leading take place. Thus, participants are in minimal risk of hurting themselves.

• Who can take part?

Absolutely anyone! One of the great things about drytooling is that, as you are holding onto axes and not holds on the wall, finger strength is less improtant than it is for conventional climbing. Taster sessions and workshops can be set up to run alongside competitions, or can be separate events so that your regular clients can try something a bit different. Age is no barrier either. We would recommend that anyone using our conventional climbing axes be at leat 14 years of age, although this can be lowered if requested. However, for younger participants we also offer 'Schmoolz' tools, special indoor training tools that have no sharp points and as such are ideal for younger participants (see below).

• What about the safety of participants and spectators?

Participants, both the climber and the belayer, must wear a helmet. The climber must also wear eye protection and gloves. These precautions help to minimise the possibility of any injury. The area below the route will generally be roped off to prevent un-helmeted spectators from getting too close.

• Where does the equipment come from?

We have a stock of essential items of equipment that can be used. We also have trade contacts who are happy to allow their kit to be used at events so that participants can try out their products.

• How do you arrange prizes for competitions?

These can come from a variety of sources. Local firms are often happy to donate prizes in return for some publicity, and we have a very good relationship with a number of trade contacts who are often able to support events. Chance are that you will already have local contacts, either with manufacturers, distributers or local climbing shops, who will often be happy to become involved.

Advertising banners, such as this one for Edelrid, are a way of paying sponsors back for their support.

• What type of event would be the best for us to run?

Of course, this is totally up to you, but we are happy to advise as each venue will have different ideas and time slots available. It is common to run a mixed taster and competition session, with some routes being set for novices and harder ones for those wanting to crank a bit harder and have the chance of winning a prize. This means that all of your regular clients can get involved, as well as attracting climbers from outside the area. There would be staff on hand to help coach those trying it for the first time and also to umpire the competition. Workshops can also be included into the scedule, commonly on the evening before the main event and early on the first morning.

• How do competitions work and are they staff-intensive?

Once competitors have signed in (usually involving a disclaimer declaration), comps are generally self-running. Climbers work in pairs and will have a score sheet detailing the routes available. Each climber gets three goes at completing the route, with 10 points for a flash, 7 points for reaching the top on the second attempt and 5 points for getting it third try. After three attempts the climbers swap over for the other to have a go. The results are entered by them onto the score sheet and they move on to the next problem. Wall staff are only required to be around to make sure that safety instructions are being adhered to and to witness score sheets if appropriate. The climber with the highest score wins, with a second and third place being usual.

• How do taster sessions work?

These are 'come-and-try-it' sessions, so participants can simply turn up and have a go. They will be able to get some initial coaching, but are otherwise left to climb with floorwalkers keeping an eye on things. It would be usual for climbers registered with your wall to be able to belay each other, climbers who are not registered with you would need to fit in with your normal entry and disclaimer policies. Numbers would only be limited by the number of routes available, and as a guideline 8 routes would allow around 20-25 participants a good length session.

• How do workshops work?

Workshops are aimed at climbers who would like to try drytooling for the first time under instruction, and they also allow for the coaching of climbers who have climbed in the winter to start using leashless tools and learn the techniques of Stein pulls, short-tooling, figures of four and nine, and the like. Workshops would tend to be at a maximum of 6 or 8 participants, last about 2 hours and typically participants will have booked in advance.

• How would a drytooling event be structured?

There are many ways in which an event can be run, and we are happy to discuss this and either design it to your requirements or to create an event that fits in with your venue, client base and time available. A typical weekend event may be structured as follows:
FRIDAY:
Route setting all day. One workshop and one taster session in the evening.
SATURDAY:
All-day taster sessions. 2 x 2-hour Workshops. All-day Competition.
SUNDAY:
Workshop and taster session in the morning. Afternoon sessions an option.

• What else can be run during an event?

We can also run sessions using the 'Schmoolz' indoor tooling axes. These have a wooden shaft and rubber loop at the top, which is hooked over holds. Apart from being safe to use for all ages of participant, they are tremendous fun on their own and when used as a training aid. Many different routes can be climbed, and these may even be existing routes on your wall - there is no need for carpet backing or other protection. They also lend themselves to bouldering problems, and it is surprising how many types of hold they will grip on to. We can also provide sales of Schmoolz tools, contact us for details.

'Schmoolz' indoor climbing tools. These present no sharp points and are also great fun to climb with!

• What are the practicalities for running events?

Setting up an event is very cost effective and can make quite a difference to client through-put at certain times of the year. The wall, holds and most of the staff are already there. Advertising is easily done via the web, both on your own site and the major climbing sites, who are usually happy to run an advert for forthcoming events. We include some web advertisng in our costs. Prizes, if needed, can very often be obtained by sponsorship, either by existing contacts or new ones set up specifically for the event. As to what clients pay, a guideline would be £15.00-£20.00 per person (including your normal wall entrance fee), for either a workshop or competiton, and £10.00-£15.00 for a taster session.

• What can drytoolingUK.com provide and what does it cost?

We can provide everything. Staff, paperwork, some advertising, holds, route setting, judging, workshops, masterclasses, equipment, and we can even arrange a suitable venue if you don't have one of your own. We work on a rate set out for the entire event, with no hidden costs. Provision of the items listed above is also included. Please drop us a line and we can give you a quote. We will be very happy to discuss any ideas and to help you plan the most effective event for the time that you are able to make available.

To talk through anything related to running events, please contact pete@drytoolinguk.com